In the 14th century, when other nations were deporting Jews, King Kazimierz actively welcomed them. If you're going to remember one Polish king, remember Kazimierz the Great, who ruled Poland from Kraków in the 14th century. This post is part of a series of 10 European Discoveries for 2019 — off-the-beaten-path gems where you can escape the tourist rut and find a corner of Europe all your own. I can't imagine how cold they must have been…wet, hungry, and dressed in rags. Back then you couldn't just sell things anywhere. We spent two weeks in Poland last summer and enjoyed it immensely. But across the grounds of the castle you can uncover more fragments of Kraków's history, and have the opportunity to visit several museums. European Festivals I. Kaisa: Okay, let's do it. This is the oldest chapel in this part of the salt mine, Saint Anthony chapel from 17th century. Warsaw's huge, idyllic Łazienki Park is sprinkled with Neoclassical buildings, peacocks, and young Poles in love. Rate. Video: Watch Czech Republic Beyond Prague, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Video: Watch Prague, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. Compared to the rest of Europe, Polish churches are alive with people practicing their faith. Rate. During the Nazi occupation there were two heroic uprisings: First, the Jewish Ghetto Uprising. He was a great warrior, diplomat, patron of the arts, and womanizer. Poland is devoutly Catholic. The small houses are traditionally used by three generations at the same time. The ruins stand as a memorial. 10. Every country's had its ups and downs. As more Jewish people were moved in from the countryside, Warsaw's ghetto was soon the miserable home of well over a million people. After the Tartars destroyed their city, Krakovians built this imposing wall. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Poland / 5 days in poland; Please sign in to post. It began as a simple, stripped-down Romanesque church in the 12th century. Twelve new episodes include Portugal (Lisbon and the country's heartland), the heart of England, Greek islands, Sicily, and Scotland (Glasgow, Highlands, and islands). People were given hooks to hang their clothes on, conned into thinking they were coming back. Everything here around us is made of salt — even the chandelier is salt crystal. Rick: Na zdrowie. It's also the city's edgy, hipster culture center — jammed with colorful bars, creative eateries, and designer boutiques. Start a New Topic. It holds the tombs of Poland's greatest rulers and historic figures. Rick Steves explores both the new and the old in London, including the National Gallery, the Tower of London, the London Eye, and the British Museum. Check your local listings for air dates. Kasia: Let's go to a very special place. Poland's two must-see cities are Warsaw and Kraków. The highlight of the entire castle complex is the cathedral. Krakow, with its bubbly Baroque and cobbled charm, is emerging as the exciting "next Prague." If you think you're good at chess, challenge one of these guys. A monument to Fryderyk Chopin, Poland's great Romantic composer, graces the park's rose garden. Rick Steves’ Europe is public television’s most-watched, longest-running travel series. Episode 312: Lisbon and the Algarve. But locals cherish the thought that Chopin's inspiration came from memories of wind blowing through the willow trees of his native land, Poland. But the most powerful Holocaust memorial — I think in all of Europe — is the concentration camp here at Auschwitz, an hour's drive from Kraków. It was rifles, knives, and Molotov cocktails against air force, tanks, and artillery as they battled courageously for 63 days. Poland Rediscovered: Krakow, Auschwitz and Warsaw | KCET. They watched, and waited. And learning from this country's recent past, I'm reminded we have much to be thankful for and much to be vigilant against. Then the inmates piled into the "shower room." They poured out of the sewers and caught the Nazis off-guard, initially having great success. The colorful architecture reminds locals and tourists alike of the prewar glory of the Polish capital. He granted them special banking and trading privileges, and established the long-standing tradition of Poland being a safe haven for Jews in Europe. The bricks are worn smooth by countless inmates who sat here to catch a little warmth in the middle of a bitter Polish winter. To get away from the tourists' Kraków, bike or hike around the Planty and up the park that lines the Vistula River. Guide: The total number of chapels in this mine is over 20. After centuries of living relatively peacefully in Poland, Warsaw's Jews suffered terribly at the hands of the Nazis. Virtually everything you see is rebuilt. In the old days, when the winters were long and very cold, we needed it. Sevilla does festivals with gusto. Rick Steves Snapshot: Kraków, Warsaw & Gdańsk contains all the complete chapters on Poland, excerpted from Rick's full-length Eastern Europe guidebook — and leaves out the chapters on other Eastern European destinations. 8.2 (11) 0. It provided extra protection at the town's main gate. Old world charm is how I would describe it. ...and experience the phoenix of Europe — Warsaw. To Poles, this church is the national mausoleum. Auschwitz I, where public transportation from Kraków arrives, has the main museum building, the Arbeit Macht Frei gate, and indoor museum exhibits in former prison buildings. This monument recalls the 50,000 Polish resistance fighters — the biggest underground army in military history — who launched a surprise attack on their Nazi oppressors. Rick Steves' Europe. The grand city of Warsaw experienced more than its share of hardships in the 20th century. I find Polish culture and history both compelling and confusing. Thankfully, these are good times for Poland. One of Europe's most gasp-worthy public spaces, it bustles with life. Headstones — broken under tank treads — now create a moving mosaic wall and Holocaust monument. Jump to bottom. Fixed iFrame Width: in pixels px Height: in pixels px. Kraków emerged from World War II virtually unscathed — it slumbered under communism until Poland won its freedom in 1989. Now he owns the Jazz Club U Muniaka, and jams regularly here in a mellow cellar. If he pointed to the right, the prisoner marched — unknowingly — directly to the gas chamber. On a balmy summer night, Kazimierz's main square, ulica Szeroka, is filled with the haunting strains of klezmer — traditional Jewish music from 19th-century Poland, generally with violin, string bass, clarinet, and accordion. The Palace of Culture and Science — Poland's tallest building, at over 700 feet — is a Warsaw landmark. Deep beneath the ground, the mine is filled with sculptures that miners have lovingly carved out of the salt. The monument commemorates those who fought and died "for the dignity and freedom of the Jewish Nation, for a free Poland, and for the liberation of humankind.". Post questions and answers about travel in Poland. Before posting, please read our Community Guidelines. My friend and fellow tour guide, Kasia Derlicka, is joining us to be sure we get things just right. Seeing the camp can be difficult. In the Middle Ages, this was the place where cloth-sellers had their market stalls. FREE Shipping by Amazon . If you don't trust me you can taste it. P.S. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Poland. Kaisa: Ok, first of all, na zdrowie (toast). For centuries, generations of Wieliczka miners spent their daylight hours underground, rarely seeing the sun. the Mongols — swept in from Asia and destroyed Kraków. Paperback $37.30 $ 37. Barcelona and Catalunya. Kaisa: And please don't sip it. Over a million people — the vast majority of them Jews — were systematically exterminated here at Auschwitz. If you don’t trust me you can taste it. Kasia: Imagine, Poland was crunched between Protestant Germany and Orthodox Russia. Sevilla. Thanks for joining us. Why don't you sip it? 0. by Rick Steves and Cameron Hewitt | Jun 19, 2012. 5 days in poland. This season also offers a travel skills episode on cruising, and two special episodes on Europe's greatest festivals. Guide: The total number of chapels in this mine is over 20. Several restaurants offer Jewish music from 19th-century Poland with their traditional cuisine. Rate. American travel authority Rick Steves guides viewers through his favorite European cities. 9 Oct. 2004 Highlights of Paris. 7. Terms of Service | Privacy, Kraków, Poland: Countryside and the Wieliczka Salt Mine, Kraków, Poland: Rich History, Vibrant Culture, Warsaw, Poland: Heroes, Memorials, and Restoration, Poland Rediscovered: Kraków, Auschwitz, and Warsaw. A visit to Germany's Black Forest and Cologne includes stops at a mineral spa and a casino. Wawel Hill is sacred ground to the Polish people — a symbol of Polish royalty and independence. Today this city is Poland's leading tourist attraction…with plenty of top-notch sights. Guide: Visitors expect salt white, but it's black, but it's salt. So if all you want is the best of Poland, this compact Snapshot guide delivers everything you'll need to know — for about half the price and half the bulk. For centuries, generations of Wieliczka miners spent their daylight hours underground, rarely seeing the sun. Like much of Poland, Kraków pulses with cool jazz nightly. Rick Steves' Europe. By the 1930s, Warsaw — with 350,000 Jews — was one of the largest Jewish cities in the world. Travel engages me with our world, and helps me feel fully alive. In the northeast corner of Europe, Poland is one of the largest countries on the Continent. The mine’s enormous underground church, carved in the early 20th century, is still used for Mass. Auschwitz II, or Birkenau, was a vast factory of death holding 100,000 people. It was a "gift" from Stalin in the 1950s that the people of Warsaw couldn't refuse. In the Middle Ages, this was where the cloth sellers had their market stalls. Go 1,000 feet underground in the vast Wieliczka Salt Mine, near Kraków, to tour the inactive mine and see the statues and chapels the religious miners carved out of the black salt over the centuries. Glasgow: Gritty Industry and Feisty Scottish Culture, Neuschwanstein: “Mad” King Ludwig’s Castle in Bavaria. You'll see legends from the days of King Kazimierz, when one-third of Poland's income came from these precious deposits: the famous astronomer Copernicus, and even the region's favorite son, Pope John Paul II. The notorious gate welcomed inmates with a cruel lie: Arbeit Macht Frei…"work will set you free.". Today — whether you're looking for a fancy egg, some traditional embroidery, or a little amber — it's your one-stop souvenir-shopping arcade. The memorial reads, "a cry of despair and a warning to humanity." Warsaw — pronounced "var-SHA-va" in Polish— is Poland's capital and biggest city. During the partition in the 19th century, we didn't even show on the map but we survived — thanks to being Polish, and thanks to being Catholics. 6. It was here that families from all over Europe were torn apart forever. Rick Steves' Europe. Wawel Cathedral is Poland's national church — its "Westminster Abbey." Up to a thousand were packed into each of these buildings. Please suggest what else can we do/see in other 2 days? I'm Rick Steves. And Warsaw, decades after it was systematically destroyed during World War II, is a lively, thriving capital once again. Kaisa: What a question! Some come to worship and others to remember leading figures in Polish history, such as Kazimierz the Great. Until next time…keep on travelin'. However, the top-notch Museum of the History of Polish Jews has rejuvenated the area, making it even more of a magnet for those interested in this chapter of Polish history. Kaisa: Yes, it's a traditional Polish drink, and actually it makes a lot of sense. At Birkenau the Nazis gassed and cremated over 4,000 people per day. A Nazi doctor stood here and evaluated each prisoner as they stepped off the train. The Nazis began moving people out at the rate of 5,000 a day to nearby death camps like Auschwitz. Be sure to mention the name of the episode so that others can follow along and join the conversation. Rick Steves' Europe. Hopefully they take away a determination to learn from the holocaust, and never let it be repeated. Rick: Yeah. Because of the ferocity of Nazi hatred, nothing remains of the ghetto except the street plan and the heroic spirit of the people who once lived here. Birkenau is on a much bigger scale and mostly outdoors, with the infamous guard tower, a vast field with ruins of barracks, a few tourable rough barracks, the notorious "dividing platform," a giant monument flanked by remains of destroyed crematoria, and a prisoner processing facility called "the Sauna.". While Poles and Jews managed to live together relatively well, the story became a nightmare with the rise of Nazism in the 1930s. Driving through the countryside back to Kraków refreshes travelers with a look at today's peaceful rural Poland. Rick Steves’ Europe Seasons . As Polish and Jewish culture mingled here for so many centuries, it's hard to distinguish between Jewish and Polish cuisine. Oct 1, 2004. Chat about your favorite shows. They decided to stage a courageous uprising. To me, the thriving city itself is the best memorial to those Warsaw heroes. Now what? His scribes bragged "Kazimierz found Poland made of wood, and left it made of brick and stone" — he even made it onto the 50-złoty note. It's close to every Polish heart. That's why I like it. 4.5 out of 5 stars 28. Everything here, including the ornate altar and the grand chandelier, is hewn from this underworld of salt. The Germans bombed the sprawling gassing and cremation facilities as they retreated. Enjoying the highlights of Poland, we'll visit its grand cultural center, Kraków, make a pilgrimage to Poland's holiest site, remember the horrors of Auschwitz, descend into a magical salt mine, feel the jazzy beat, be inspired by WWII heroics, slam down a Polish tradition…. It's a member of the European Union, its economy is thriving, and it's never been more fun to visit. Season 10 of Rick Steves' Europe debuted across the US on public television in the fall of 2018. Take me as example, I'm 65 years old and I'm still fresh, still young. Video: Watch Poland Rediscovered: Kraków, Auschwitz, and Warsaw, an episode of the Rick Steves' Europe TV show. By 1942, half of the Jews in the ghetto had died of disease or starvation. To show their…gratitude…the people of Warsaw nicknamed it "Stalin's penis.". Rate. Each midday, crowds gather for a medieval moment as a nun swings open the church's much-adored altarpiece. Poland. By the 19th century, the city wall was no longer necessary. The Jewish cemeteries of Kazimierz were defiled by the Germans, bulldozed by Nazi tanks. Nearby, a visit to Auschwitz teaches us a timeless, soul … A church has stood on this spot for 800 years. Rate. Several powerful museums are dedicated to telling the story. So it hurts only once. After dinner, we'll take a nighttime stroll, lacing together the city's piazzas and fountains. The remarkable Wieliczka Salt Mine — just outside of Kraków — has been producing salt for eight centuries. Eyeglasses evoke how individuality was trashed. The original church was destroyed by the first Tatar invasion in 1241, but all subsequent versions — including the current one — have been built on the same foundation. Rate. Auschwitz was the biggest and most notorious concentration camp in the Nazi system. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Or in the Cloth Hall. Episode 310: Poland Rediscovered: Kraków, Auschwitz, and Warsaw. Kazimierz the Great turned the Cloth Hall into a permanent structure in the 14th century. (The Nazis didn't want a panic.) Pope John Paul II was a hometown boy and served right here as archbishop of Kraków before being called to Rome. Nearby, the imposing St. Mary's Church — with its soaring lookout tower — has long been an icon of the city. This time we're in Poland with such a rich history and a promising future. We're having some traditional Polish dishes that go well with vodka: herring, cold cuts, Polish pickles, and steak tartare. Downtown has a Gotham City ambience — with busy boulevards, expansive squares, and blocky buildings. Stop the car…get out…enjoy an intimate look at Poland's welcoming country life. And today, even the higgledy-piggledy charm of the buildings has been painstakingly restored. Season 9 Episode 5. Most of all, Kazimierz was remembered for being a tolerant and progressive king. Kraków grew wealthy from trade in the 12th century. 4.6 out of 5 stars 13. keywords Art Industrialization Poland. The resilience of Poland's culture and the warmth of its people inspire me. Tour Account › Travel Forum › Home / Travel Forum / Poland; Please sign in to post. After years of neglect, the district began a rejuvenation in the early 2000s. 30. More Buying Choices $1.98 (18 used & new offers) DK Eyewitness Krakow (Travel Guide) by DK Eyewitness | Feb 20, 2018. Dzień dobry. Kazimierz the Great and his predecessors gradually surrounded the cathedral with some 20 chapels, which were further modified over the centuries — making this beautiful church a happy hodgepodge of styles. You can look down the sides to see how the Main Market Square has risen about seven feet over the centuries (church open daily in the afternoon). Stream Poland - Travel with Rick Steves by Travel with Rick Steves from desktop or your mobile device Local merchants then resold their wares at a profit…and the city thrived. After descending 200 feet below the surface, you follow your guide on a mile-long downhill stroll, getting a memorable peek at life in the mine. Everything had to be sold here on the market square. Rate. While Warsaw was in the sphere of Moscow and therefore more Eastern and conservative, Kraków has long been more Western and liberal. With Rick Steves. Romania. Season 3 Episode 13. With Rick Steves. They murdered over 4 million European Jews in Poland. But Auschwitz victims and their families want tourists to come here, to experience the scale and the monstrosity of the place in human terms, in hope that the Holocaust will never be forgotten. Crowds got you down? Watch Rick Steves' Europe - Season 4, Episode 10 - Salzburg and Surroundings: Rick visits the birthplace of Mozart and explores the delightful romantic town of Hallstatt. About a year later, the rest of the city staged another ill-fated uprising: the Warsaw Uprising. Rate. 4. Through all this, the Soviets sat here, across the river. Because it was to be "Soviet in substance and Polish in style," Soviet architects actually toured Poland to absorb the local culture before starting the project. Proud miners carved figures of great Poles out of the salt. Though legendary saxophonist Janusz Muniak passed away in 2016, his famous club is still the best for all-around jazz in a sophisticated cellar environment. Hopelessly outgunned by the Nazis, the uprising was crushed, the ghetto was demolished, and its residents were killed. Rick Steves' Europe. Please try again. Share your comments on Rick Steves’ Europe TV shows with other travelers and with Rick! The cathedral interior is slathered in Baroque memorials and tombs, decorated with tapestries, and soaked in Polish history. Also: a romantic forest; sampling chocolate-cherry cake. Written and hosted by best-selling guidebook author Rick Steves, each half-hour show takes viewers to Europe's most interesting places, from great cities to off-the-beaten-path discoveries. Kaisa: You can chase it. You’ll see legends from the days of King Kazimierz, when one-third of Poland’s income came from these precious deposits: the famous astronomer Copernicus, and even the region’s favorite son, Pope John Paul II. If he pointed to the left, the person was judged strong enough to work and would live a little longer. Sigismund III — the great king who moved Poland's capital from Kraków to Warsaw in 1596 — stands overseeing everything. 0:55:02. Today Wawel is the most-visited sight in all Poland. Rick Steves' Europe Greek Islands: Santorini, Mykonos and Rhodes. The remarkable Wieliczka Salt Mine — just outside of Kraków — has been producing salt for eight centuries. Proud miners carved figures of great Poles out of the salt. Rick Steves' Europe is public television's most-watched, longest-running travel series. $1.99. Rate. Everything here around us is made of salt — even the chandelier is salt crystal. Poland is ready to be rediscovered as the old "east" transforms itself into the new heart of Europe. A quarter of a million Poles were killed. Go 1,000 feet underground in the vast Wieliczka Salt Mine, near Kraków, to tour the inactive mine and see the statues and chapels the religious miners carved out of the black salt over the centuries. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. You'll explore this unique gallery — learning both about the art and about medieval mining techniques — on a required tour. And the city's legendary mermaid welcomes friends while keeping out foes. Even though Poland's political capital moved from here to Warsaw 400 years ago, Kraków remains the country's cultural and intellectual center. Since liberation day in 1945, millions have visited this place. Today it’s busy not with miners, but with tourists. Nearby, a visit to Auschwitz teaches a timeless, soul-searching lesson. The camp monument represents gravestones and the chimney of a crematorium. Today, while note quite as slick and polished as Prague's Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz's assortment of synagogues, cemeteries, and museums helps visitors appreciate the neighborhood's rich history. Relatively peacefully in Poland death holding 100,000 people told they 'd be starting new lives and to luggage... 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